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In this week's box is the tea Canton Tea Co was founded on. Barney Allen explains why.

The Pouchong that began Canton Tea

by on October 11th, 2012

Canton Tea Club Week 2: ‘That Pouchong…’

Those of you that were customers of Canton before joining the club will probably have heard us wax lyrical about our Pouchong many times before, and many of you might be regular drinkers. It may seem like we are taking a very safe route by putting this tea in the Tea Club box – as it is one we stock on our website and indeed one of our bestsellers. But we just couldn’t pass up the opportunity to share this tea with as many people as possible – and tell the story of why we are in this business.

Canton co-founder Barney Allen: Why are we doing this? Why do we exhaust ourselves to start a tea company in the teeth of competition from giant corporations and fake independent companies?

Er, that’ll be the Pouchong – the enigmatic green/oolong tea from Taiwan that led us into this mayhem.

Taipei 1988: ‘It’s just green tea’ said Professor Lin, as the large dark green leaves lurked, unfurling in my cup. I knew I was tasting something special. At once sweet and dry, mineral and floral, rich and light, complex yet direct. Sometimes we don’t know what the music is but we like it anyway. It took us over 20 years of drinking Pouchong to realise that we wanted to share it. The rest is history.

Pouchong Oolong is grown around Pingling, Wenshan County just outside Taipei. It’s so lightly oxidized, the locals call it a green tea (and we classify it as such in our shop). It’s easy to brew, easy to ‘get’ – a great gateway into green tea – but very hard to actually get.

The harvest happens suddenly, when the confluence of biodynamic elements and the rather crazy weather is right. The email comes within hours – maybe 15 grades – $30 a kilo to $3,600. The merest delay means disappointment as the more earthly-priced grades are quickly snapped up by wholesalers, who then mix it with inferior teas. We have to move fast to capture the single estate grades. We do. Can we negotiate the price? No, this is true Fair Trade, Taiwan-style: ‘You want it, or not?’. We do.

Visiting Wenshan County is weird and wonderful experience: a short drive from the suburban jungle of Taipei into a volcanic, subtropical world of impossibly steep twisting roads, small tea plantations, and tea farmers, who are delighted to see you. So keen to share tea, but perhaps even more so to press you with ‘special country dishes’ – don’t ask, don’t tell – and the oh so fiery local firewater.

Professor Lin’s cousin, Farmer Xu and his aged parents are a joy to meet. Sun-baked like their tea, delighted to show you their wares, their many wooden plaques proclaiming their victories in the tea-grading competitions, their amazing vegetable patch, and their stunning views.

So try their Pouchong. Dump it in a mug and keep topping up with hot water. Or get your stopwatch out and brew it gong fu style to explore the range of flavour and texture as you go through the infusions. Pouchong has that indefinable, elusive quality of everything good. It is an expression of the producers’ unbending will to create something fabulous. As Edgar said when he first started drinking it: ‘That Pouchong…’

Do you think Pouchong is a green or oolong tea? Once you've voted, let us know why below.

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  1. sfugarino says:

    I think I’m the victum of the Tea Nazi…
     
    “No tea for you!”

  2. ccc3579 says:

    This tea reminds me a bit of Zealong pure (oolong tea grown in New Zealand) that I picked up a year or two ago. Both are very light and subtly flavored teas, yet very drinkable and complex at the same time. With my first sip of the pouchong I got a definite floral taste that I was not expecting at all. With further steepings I got little to no floral taste after that first steeping. A new tea for me, and definitely enjoyable!

  3. f h murphy says:

    Holy cucumber sandwiches of the apocalypse, I just got the pouchong and it’s delightful, especially in the late afternoon when my palate’s fully wakened.  Only an oolong can taste like this.  I can see why Canton got so excited.  At first I thought that the fragrance was more engaging than the taste but I just kept re-brewing and re-brewing.  And here’s a suggestion to Canton, please let us know when these teas are harvested.

  4. AC Cargill says:

    I got my sample fairly late. Am thinking US Customs is delaying delivery. Oh, well. Have avoided seeing comments from others until hubby and I could try this tea. As for whether is oolong or green, for us, is definitely more oolong than green in terms of flavor. Dry leaves – dark blue green color, aroma faintly floral. Steeped in teapot. 3 infusions. Taste – 1 was smooth, buttery, mellow, hubby said it cleared his nasal passages, calming, soothing; 2 – sweetness, smooth, slightly floral/nutty; 3 – more floral, not smooth, had sugary notes. Overall, a heavenly tea but poses a quandary: pricey so we’d want to spread out enjoying it, but not sure if it will store long-term (6-12 mos, maybe longer).

  5. AC Cargill says:

    @f h murphy
     Great point. Harvest year is very helpful. I am assuming (perhaps erroneously) that it was from this year.

  6. AC Cargill says:

    @sfugarino
     Nah, I think US Customs is the culprit here. Sigh! Got my package a couple days ago.

  7. cantonteaco says:

    @AC Cargill  @f h murphy Thanks for the suggestion. Yes the Pouchong is Spring 2012 and we will endeavour to include harvest year from now on

  8. AC Cargill says:

    @leafjoy
     Hubby and I agree – a floral oolong. See my comments above.

  9. cantonteaco says:

    @AC Cargill  @sfugarino We think it is customs too. Week 5 has already been posted mega early and we really hope it gets to you US folks in time!

  10. sparrisupdate says:

    Laid-back, unpretentious tea that I’ve enjoyed in a variety of ways, my favourite brewing method is just casually putting a small amount in a bowl, pouring the water over them and start drinking when the temp’s gone down a bit.
    Smelling the gaiwan lid when doing it gong-fu style recommended!

  11. sparrisupdate says:

    Laid-back, unpretentious tea that I’ve enjoyed in a variety of ways, my favourite brewing method is just  putting a small amount  of leaves in a bowl, pouring the water over them and start drinking when the temp’s gone down a bit.
    Smelling the gaiwan lid when doing it gong-fu style recommended!

  12. cantonteaco says:

    @sparrisupdate Agreement on the gaiwan lid. So buttery

  13. f h murphy says:

    I’ll have all the US Customs officials “detained” for questioning.

  14. AndreaChierici says:

    I’m trying this one Gong Fu style and it’s delicius. Maybe my favourite tea of the club