Phoenix Dan Cong Oolong Tea
Other names
- Phoenix Tea
- Shui Xian (NB not Wuyi Shui Xian)
- Dragon Phoenix
- Fenghuang Dan Cong
Introduction
Dan Cong or Shui Xian is one of China’s most revered Oolongs: Dan Cong is produced from a special, very old varietal of tea bush that grows only in the hills around Chao Zhou in Guangdong province. A well-brewed, high grade Dan Cong is regarded by many connoisseurs as the ultimate tea.
Origin
Fenghuang, Chao Zhou, Guangdong province
Varietal: Dan Cong (single trunk). This is a tall, large-leaved tea, unique to the Chao Zhou area. There is some controversy about the name of the Dan Cong variety: It is often translated as ‘single bush’. Some Dan Cong is still picked and sold from single bush, although it is often misrepresented. True single bush Dan Cong is very rare and expensive.
Processing
Dan Cong production begins in March when the best Spring teas are picked. There are several harvests throughout the year. Winter teas are considered to be of lower quality. Dan Cong is made from a special long stemmed varietal of tea bush that has been propagated from the seeds of very old plants – some of which are said to be over 700 years old. The older trees grow tall and ladders are needed to pick the leaves.
Dan Cong is withered briefly either in the sun (the smaller farmers spread it out on asphalt roads) or indoors in broad, flat bamboo trays. It then undergoes the usual complex steps of tumbling, roasting, rolling and fixing to achieve the desired leaf colour and flavour profile.
Large-leafed tea varieties such as Dan Cong demand much more skill and concentration from the maker than other teas. Dan Cong is traditionally oxidised quite heavily to achieve the characteristic rich sweet flavours although there is a recent trend for more lightly fermented styles which can produce intense notes of flowers and fruit. The finished leaves are long and twisted, with a distinctive browny-orange colour.
Tasting notes
Dan Cong is the Carmen Miranda of Teas: Bursting with intense flavours of sweet apricots, mango and peach, with rich floral notes of orchids and honeysuckle. Old bush varieties can show some astringency and need careful brewing to produce flavours of extreme complexity – including dried fruit, cinnamon, ginger, grapefruit and almonds.
Brewing Instructions
Dan Cong can be tricky to brew. The long leaves are delicate and need careful handling. The best way is in a Gaiwan or any other infuser that allows quick repeated infusions. The Chinese tend to use 5 - 7g of tea per infusion and brew with water just off the boil (95°C or 203°F) and make several quick (10 -15 second) infusions. You can use less tea and infuse for longer periods. The number of infusions depends on the quality of the tea – but you can expect at least 5 - 7 good infusions from one serving of Dan Cong. The flavours will change and become mellower through the infusions.
